**Island on the Front Line of Tensions**
On Taiwan’s remote Kinmen Island, the remnants of military conflict surround a small cafe. Rusting tanks guard the entrance, a stark reminder of the island’s turbulent past. Just six miles of choppy water and a row of anti-invasion spikes separate the cafe from mainland China. Despite the long-standing tensions between Taiwan and China, the cafe’s main source of revenue was once tourists from the mainland.
However, since 2019, Chinese tourists have been barred from visiting Taiwan, citing poor cross-strait relations. The ban has had a devastating impact on Kinmen’s economy, which relies heavily on tourism. Many businesses, including the cafe, have struggled to stay afloat without their main customer base.
In the mid-20th century, Kinmen was on the front line of China’s conflict with Taiwan. But as the military presence subsided, the island turned to tourism. Residents embraced their conflict-ridden past, opening cafes in former military fortifications and selling “war rations” in restaurants.
The island’s proximity to China makes it an attractive destination for tourists. However, the lack of Chinese visitors has been felt deeply. Local business owners have had to adapt, with some turning to exporting products abroad or shifting their businesses to Taiwan’s main island.
The tension between Taiwan and China has also affected the island’s fishermen, who have reported encounters with Chinese Coast Guard ships in restricted waters. The situation has left many feeling uneasy, with some expressing concerns about their safety.
Despite the challenges, there are signs of hope. In late September, a small group of mainland tourists arrived in Kinmen, marking a tentative return to tourism. While it’s unclear if the situation will ever return to what it once was, locals remain optimistic about the future. As one local guide said, “We hope mainland Chinese people can visit Taiwan and Kinmen again to promote economic development on both sides.”
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